Important: Do not try to tighten the Head-Lock onto a Mitchell mount unless the Head-Lock is bolted to the bottom of a camera head, or the mounting bolt is through the Head-Lock with a nut tightened down on it. Doing so could pull the moving parts of the Head-Lock out of the center hub, damaging the internal parts.
Installation: To mount the Cardellini Head-Lock on the bottom of any Mitchell base head, first remove the nut from the 3/8” mounting bolt. Then, making sure the key on the head is in the keyway of the Head-Lock adapter plate, bolt them together with the 3/8” bolt using the hex wrench provided.
Mounting head on Mitchell mount: Pass the center locking unit of the Head-Lock through the center hole of the Mitchell mount. Align the key with the keyway. Turn the knob clockwise until the three jaws contact the Mitchell mount. Make the knob good and snug so it doesn’t vibrate loose during use.
Safety Catch: For extra security, one of the three jaws on your Head-Lock has a ball plunger pressed into it, so the Head-Lock could never vibrate loose and allow the head to fall off of its mount. When you are loosening the knob and retracting the jaws, you will feel resistance when the ball plunger reaches the center hub. Continuing to turn the knob will overcome this resistance, and the jaws will retract into the hub.
Lubrication: Under normal working conditions, lubrication of the Head-Lock should rarely be necessary. There are two groups of moving parts:
1) The jaws and their associated parts are nickel plated and their surfaces work well against each other. To help them work smoothly, I have sprayed them with a dry film lubricant containing graphite and molybdenum disulfide. Contaminants will not stick to this lubricant. If you want at some point in time to re-treat these surfaces, you can do that without disassembling the Head-Lock. The three screws that hold the adapter plate to the center hub are in threaded holes that go all the way through the hub to the parts that drive the jaws. Using a spray can that has a plastic tube attached to the nozzle, put the tube all the way into the hole and give it one quick shot of lubricant. Do this in each hole and then rotate the knob to spread the lubricant.
2) Below the head of the mounting bolt, behind the rubber seal, is a thrust bearing that is packed with light-weight grease. If this area gets contaminated, for example if the Head-Lock is submerged in water, the area will need to be cleaned and the bearing re-greased. To access the bearing, remove the retaining ring and rubber seal.
Disassembly: Separate the locking unit from the adapter plate by removing the 3/8” nut and bolt, and the three #10 flat head screws. To disassemble the locking unit you must first loosen the set screw that is set into the 1/4” hole in the side of the hub, between two of the jaws. Using a 7/64” hex wrench, back out the set screw until the head is flush with the surface of the hub. Now you can separate the knob and jaws from the hub. When removing the jaws make note of which jaw is in which groove of the hub. To reassemble: 1) replace the knob and jaws being sure to put the jaws back in the grooves they came from. 2) Using the 3/8” bolt and nut, reattach the locking unit to the adapter plate, leaving the nut just finger tight. 3) Rotate the locking unit to align the three bolt holes. Install and tighten the three #10 flat head screws. 4) Tighten the nut on the 3/8 bolt before tightening the set screw. 5) Tighten the set screw.
If you have any questions or feedback about the Head-Lock please phone me at (415) 924-0294. -Steve Cardellini